Main photo - Oak wall panelling by Rural Office
In architecture, panelling is the lining of walls, ceilings, doors and furniture in sheets of wood. Wall panelling is a great way of adding character to an interior and works equally well in traditional and modern settings.
As well as its aesthetic appeal, it offers practical benefits. Installed in a hallway, it can protect walls against wear and tear, and when fitted on timber framing, it creates a space behind to conceal building services and add thermal and sound insulation.
Wall panelling works well in most rooms and can be made from a variety of different materials and finishes. If you are about to refurbish an existing space, build an extension or a new house, wood panelling will make an excellent addition to your interior design.
This article focuses on domestic architecture and looks at:
A brief history of wall panelling
Types of wood for wall panelling
Traditional or modern wall panelling?
How to reinstate original wall panelling
How much does wall panelling cost?
Timber wall panelling has appeared in building interiors since antiquity. It was originally installed as a practical measure to insulate against the cold and damp, but soon evolved to serve a decorative purpose.
Simple vertical boarding was in use by the thirteenth century. Framed panelling, the type we’re familiar with today, dates from the fourteenth century.
Fifteenth century Tudor interiors in England were characterised by highly intricate carved panelling, including oak linenfold panels which resembled folded drapery. Small, square panels were fashionable in the sixteenth century.
Panels became larger and simpler by the Georgian era.They were set out in classical proportions and often made of imported pine and painted. It was during this period that low level panelling, now referred to as wainscotting, was first introduced.
During the Victorian era, wall panelling was largely out of fashion and replaced with wallpapers such as anaglypta. Three-quarter height timber wall panelling, however, was a common feature in Arts and Crafts architecture which began in the late nineteenth century.
Timber panelling continued to feature into the twentieth century. Simple, floor to ceiling plywood panelling is commonly found in modernist houses designed by architects who sought to create more humane domestic interiors.
Tudor oak panelling at Sutton House, London - Photo credit, National Trust
Throughout history, wall panelling in the UK was typically made from either oak or pine as the supply of timber was limited. Nowadays, it is possible to panel walls in a variety of timber from across the world, as well as manufactured wood products such as plywood and MDF.
For traditional panelling where the wood grain is to be exposed, match the timber with existing joinery in the room; oak is a classic choice. In the Victorian era, a wider variety of timber was used including mahogany, teak and walnut.
In a modern interior, consider a high-grade plywood. Plywood can be manufactured with a range of outer veneers, including birch, ash, Douglas fir and oak. If you are installing plywood panelling in a new extension to an old building, match the outer veneer with the existing timber for visual continuity.
If you are painting the panels, there is no need to buy expensive timber. Select a material for its surface quality and dimensional stability – MDF is widely used. For a more environmentally friendly alternative, consider high-grade Nordic spruce plywood or Grade A pine furniture boards. Avoid lower grade pine, as it seldom offers the same surface quality.
Modern timber mouldings are typically manufactured in softwood and can be used to recreate traditional designs.
Buy timber that carries PEFC or FSC certification to ensure highest environmental standards.
In addition to the above, it is also possible to source reclaimed panelling from salvage companies – the ultimate sustainable option.
Painted MDF and ash veneered plywood panelling by Architecture for London
When refurbishing an old building, it’s important to understand its architectural period and history as this will influence your interior design.
The proposed works do not need to faithfully restore the original setting (unless the interior is listed), but they should seek to respond to the existing architecture in a positive way. New works devoid of any understanding for their context tend to be less successful.
If you have some or all of the original panelling intact, the culturally and environmentally responsible approach is to work with the traditional detailing and make good and repair. Once original building elements have been lost, it is very difficult to replace them to the same standard, even with the best intentions. Removing repairable materials also creates unnecessary waste.
If your home has been stripped of its original interior detailing, you have two options: 1 - reinstate the original details to the best of your abilities, or 2 - create a contemporary interior that works with the existing architecture.
The safest option is to research and replicate the original detailing as there is a clearer set of rules to follow to achieve a successful outcome – more on this below. The modern approach takes more skill to get right, but when implemented successfully offers a solution that is perfectly suited to modern requirements. Appointing an architect with experience of working with historic buildings will ensure you achieve a high-quality scheme.
If you live in a listed building, many of the design decisions will be taken out of your hands. The conservation officer will seek to ensure existing joinery is retained and repaired while replacement elements will need to be constructed to original specifications.
For a new extension or house, embrace the modern. Traditional panelling will look out of place and bears little relevance to present-day building practices.
Modern panelling in an Edwardian house by Architecture for London - Photo credit, The Modern House
The architectural periods preceding the Georgian era (1714-1837) were renowned for their highly decorative interiors. The Georgians, however, favoured a return to classical architecture and simpler ornamentation.
Much of the wall panelling of this time was made from imported slow-grown oak or pine from northern Europe, selected for its superior aesthetic and physical properties. Oak was typically waxed or resin varnished to show off its natural characteristics. Pine typically painted.
The panelling consisted of rectangular sheets of timber framed together by narrower sections called stiles (the outer vertical sections), muntins (the intermediate vertical sections), and rails (the horizontal sections). Simple mouldings were often added for embellishment. Bead and butt panelling – vertical tongue and groove boards with a curved edge detail – was common in lower status homes.
Georgian rooms were decorated according to their status. The principal rooms were used for entertaining and often had full-height wall panelling while panelling in bedrooms was usually restricted to lower level, now referred to as wainscot. Ancillary areas such as the kitchen, scullery and attic spaces were usually left plain.
Towards the end of the period, full height panelling fell out of fashion and was restricted to wainscot height with decorative coverings above. By the Victorian era, wall panelling was rarely used. All that remained was the dado rail.
Georgian townhouse, Spitalfields, London - Photo credit - Inigo
Spanning the Victorian (1837-1901) and Edwardian (1901-1910) eras, the Arts and Crafts movement (circa 1880-1920) was distinct from the prevailing architectural styles of the time and established to counteract many of the building practices brought in by industrialisation.
The movement promoted traditional handmade skills and sought inspiration from earlier forms of British architecture and the natural world. It was a time of great design innovation and despite its rejection of the mechanised world, created highly modern looking buildings which later influenced the modern movement.
Architects displayed greater individuality, and houses of the era varied quite extensively in style. Wall panelling, however, was a common feature and was often installed to two-thirds or three-quarters of the way up the wall and topped off with plate rails.
Houses by Charles Voysey were pared back and almost modern in appearance. Wall panelling was simply detailed and finished to celebrate the natural character of the wood.
Many of Philip Webb’s house interiors were adorned with highly decorative wall coverings by William Morris. Again, wall panels were simply detailed and decorated but this time to act as a backdrop for the more decorative elements. Timber was painted in dark or light colours to create different atmospheres.
Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the world-famous Scottish architect, created highly individual interiors. Panelling was stained either black or white. Decorative elements, including coloured glass and stencilled motifs, were added for adornment.
Garden Corner, London by Charles Voysey - Photo credit, Ellis Williams Architects
Twentieth century architecture is often thought of as minimal and sterile. However, there were many architects that sought to create more humane spaces.
Wood panelling is prevalent in many Scandinavian modernist houses, most notably seen in works by Alvar Aalto and then Jorn Utzon who lined walls with plywood and square-edge vertical boarding, respectively.
Frank Lloyd Wright frequently used timber panelling in his interiors. Firstly, with solid timber panelling in his Prairie Style houses and then plywood panelling in his Usonian houses, which increasingly took on more modern characteristics.
Other notable examples can be found in mid-century modern houses in the US, UK and other parts of the western world.
Wood wall panelling continues to feature prominently in home interiors designed by architects today. Visit our project pages for inspiration.
Aalto House living room - Alvar Aalto Museum, Photo credit, Maija Holma
If you live in an old building where the original panelling has been removed, it can be difficult to know how to reinstate it.
Look for other original joinery elements that survive in your home. Skirtings, architraves, shutters, picture rails and dado rails can provide clues. If you live in a Georgian or early Victorian house, do not assume that the details found in the living room are the same in the rest of the house. Interior details varied according to the status of the room so compare as many different rooms as possible.
Pull back modern wall coverings and look for traces of lost panelling left in old wallpaper or paint schemes, or appearing in scars in the plaster where the fixings went in. By doing this you can often work out if the panelling was wainscot (low level) or full height.
Visit neighbouring houses of a similar age and style and ask to carry out a survey. Take photographs and measurements to record proportions and moulding profiles.
Consult with specialist joinery companies and suppliers.They have extensive knowledge of the various joinery details used in the different architectural periods and will be able to advise on what is appropriate for your home.
If you are installing wood panelling in a listed building, you may need to replicate original materials and detailing methods.The conservation officer will provide direction.
Restored Georgian panelling by Chris Dyson - Photo credit, The Modern House
Wall panelling in a bathroom can soften the utilitarian appearance created by tiling and make the space feel more equal to other rooms in the house.
Hardwoods are particularly resistant to moisture and the best type of timber to use in bathrooms. Japanese cypress (hinoki) and cedar have been used in bathrooms for centuries. The Victorians opted for tropical hardwoods such as mahogany and teak. All are highly water resistant and extremely durable.
For more sustainable options, consider Douglas fir, Siberian or Scottish larch, and birch. All are extremely durable and possess good water resistance properties.
Pine and spruce tend to warp and develop fungi following extended contact with moisture. Oak can be used but it is prone to stain from water if not properly finished.
Birch plywood is extremely dense and dimensionally stable. When finished with a hard wax oil or water based polyurethane varnish, it can withstand high levels of humidity.
For painted bathroom wall panelling, consider moisture resistant MDF rather than solid wood if you are on a budget. You can make your panels bespoke or buy MDF panelling kits online.
All woods should be treated with wax oils, varnishes or paints to enhance moisture protection.
If you live in a Georgian or Victorian home, installing square-edge framed or butt and bead wainscotting, finished with a modern coloured satinwood paint, will create a traditional yet contemporary aesthetic.
Note, bathrooms did not exist during the Georgian period and only appeared in high status homes in the latter part of the Victorian era. Early Victorian bathrooms were designed to look similar to a bedroom. Sanitary ware was usually fitted against wainscotting or anaglypta to protect the walls from water damage.
For contemporary bathroom panelling, consider full-height birch plywood or painted square edged tongue and groove boarding.
Wood panelling is not suitable in wet areas such as shower enclosures.
It’s important your bathroom maintains good levels of ventilation to control moisture levels and ensure the longevity of the timber.
Left: Painted bathroom panelling by O'Sullivan Skoufoglou Architects - Photo credit - Stale Eriksen Right: Ash veneered bathroom panelling by Architecture for London - Photo credit - Christian Brailey
In high status period homes, wall panelling was used in the entrance hallway to display wealth and create a sense of grandeur. Georgian townhouses, for example, often had floor-to-ceiling framed panelling in the areas that received guests – the hallway and ground and first floor principal rooms. Wainscotting was also used.
Arts and Crafts country houses have generously proportioned entrance areas, and panelling is installed to two-thirds or three-quarter height and continued into the formal rooms.
There are many examples of wood panelling in present-day architect designed interiors. Plywood is a popular choice, but solid panelling also features. If the stair is part of an extension to an old house, new panelling can reference existing joinery for visual continuity. For example, if there is traditional wainscotting along the existing stair flights, new plywood wall panelling could be installed at the same height. In new housing, timber panelling will bring instant character. Depending on the size and setting, panelling can be varnished, stained or painted, full height, door height, or wainscot, framed, boarded or profiled. The options are extensive.
When installing wood linings in a hallway, it is important to ensure fire safety regulations are met. Low-level panelling applied on top of the existing wall finish generally does not require any special treatment. Full height panelling, however, may need to be fire resistant, especially if it’s the sole interior lining. Timber can be protected with fire retardant varnishes. High quality pre-finished fire retardant plywood is available through reputable timber merchants such as James Latham.
Left: Restored Georgian panelling by Chris Dyson - Photo credit, The Modern House. Right: Ash veneered stair panelling by Architecture for London
In a kitchen area, wood panelling, combined with tiling and other wipe-clean materials, will provide character without losing practicality.
Timber complements industrial finishes such as concrete very well. If you have concrete worktops or flooring, clear varnished or hard wax oiled wood panelling will introduce warmth and establish a less austere, more domestic interior space.
Wall panelling can be specified to match kitchen units for an integrated overall look. If you have painted door fronts, install painted wall panelling in a matching or complementary colour. Hard wax oiled plywood works equally as well as door fronts or full height wall panelling. Plywood can be veneered in a wide range of different timber species, offering lots of scope for different interior options.
Wood panelling can be used as a feature wall to articulate a function or activity. For example, next to a dining table in an open plan kitchen-dining area.
Wood should not be installed next to sinks as water contact will cause the panelling to warp and split. It is also not ideal for splashbacks. Tiling and other hardwearing materials are more suitable.
Dining area panelling by O'Sullivan Skoufoglou Architects - Photo credit, Stale Eriksen
The main factors that determine the cost of wall panelling are:
The most economical type of panelling is painted MDF comprising of sheet backing panels and square edge strip sections for framing. Mouldings, usually sold in softwood, will add a nominal cost.
Pre-cut MDF kits are available online for about £90 for a 2.4 x 1.2 metre full size sheet, or £30 for a 1.2 x 0.6 metre sheet, or you can cut your own parts from standard MDF sheets. A standard sheet of 9 millimetre MDF costs about £25 at the time of writing. 9 millimetre moisture resistant MDF costs about £40 per sheet.
Joiner rates for installation are on average £200 per day, plus VAT. Decorators will charge about £150 per day, plus VAT, for painting.
Simple MDF painted wainscotting, glued and nailed will therefore cost in the region of £120 per square metre. Full height MDF panelling will cost about £150 per square metre allowing for sub framing and additional time on site.
Full-height panelling is more labour intensive and requires timber framing behind.
Simple, face-fixed plywood panelling costs about £170 per square metre, inclusive of sub framing and decorations. Concealed fixed panelling is likely to cost more than £200 per square metre. Find more information on using plywood as an interior finish in our article - An architect's guide to using plywood in your home.
Installing traditional oak panelling requires specialist expertise and costs in the region of £350 for supply and installation. If you live in a listed building and need to reinstate highly decorative panelling, costs can be a lot more.
Low-level wainscot panelling can be glued directly to the wall if the wall surface is flat and free of lumps and bumps. You should use a strong heavy-duty grab adhesive to fix the panels to the wall. Apply the glue in a zigzag pattern to the panels, then press firmly against the wall. Use shims and props to keep the panels in place while the adhesive is drying. For an extra firm fixing, use glue and nails.
If your wall surfaces are inconsistent, or you want to install full-height panelling, install softwood framing first. The framing will even out any discrepancies and provide a sound substrate for fixing.
Full-height panels can be heavy and require strong fixings. Flooring screws are a good option. They are designed to grip the wood tight while the head profile almost disappears into the top surface. If you are painting the panels, a tiny amount of filler is all that’s needed to disguise any hole marks. If the panels are to be varnished, fill holes with a mixture of sawdust and PVA glue.
For a completely concealed fixing, consider a split batten system. One part of the fixing is screwed into the wall and a second onto the back of the panel. The panel is then lifted and hooked into place. Note, this method is more labour intensive than face fixing, and installation costs are typically higher as a result. Consider Button-fix, or similar.
Narrow board panelling, including traditional butt and bead panelling, can be glued and nailed directly to the wall or fixed sub framing, as noted above.
Historically, oak and types of hardwood panelling were generally waxed or resin varnished. Softwood, widely used from the eighteenth century, was normally painted.
If you are painting old or new panelling, a semi-gloss finish such as satinwood will protect against splashes and is easy to wipe down. To refurbish the original paint finish, seek specialist advice from a paint conservator. Prime surfaces with an appropriate primer beforehand.
Existing polished surfaces can be re-waxed. Use a wax comprising of beeswax and turpentine for a traditional finish. Wax can also be used over existing resin varnish; new resin varnish is very difficult to apply and requires the work of specialists. Note, matching existing finishes can be very difficult.
For a natural modern finish on solid timber and plywood, consider a high-quality hard wax oil or water-based polyurethane varnish. Osmo and Bona both provide an excellent range of products. As well as providing a durable finish, they contain ingredients that protect timber from yellowing under UV light. They are appropriate for use in bathrooms and kitchens.
Wood stains can also be applied for different colouration. Osmo and Morrells manufacture high-quality products and can be over-coated with a hardwax oil or polyurethane varnish. Carry out on a test area beforehand to ensure you achieve the desired finish.
Hard wax oil finished ash veneered plywood panelling by O'Sullivan Skoufoglou Architects - Photo credit, Stale Eriksen
About the author: Aron Coates is an architect with over two decades of experience, encompassing projects ranging from the restoration of historic buildings to the design of contemporary homes.
The information provided in this article is intended for general guidance and educational purposes only. At Designs in Detail, we advise you appoint a skilled residential architect to provide specific expert advice for your project.
